Swiss Cheese Fondue Evening
Article by Charlene Ho; photos by Elaine Ng
Fondue, once promoted as the national Swiss dish, can be served during the cooler temperatures of the year. It is melted cheese served in a communal pot. We were treated to a special type of fondue that is much loved and enjoyed by the Swiss called Moitié-Moitié “half-half”: half Gruyère cheese, half Freiburger Vacherin AOP. Gruyère, named after the village, is a hard yellow cheese that originated in the cantons of Fribourg, Vaud, Neuchâtel, Jura, and Berne in Switzerland. Freiburger Vacherin is a semi-soft cheese made with raw cow’s milk in the towns of Bulle (Canton Vaud) and Fribourg (Canton Fribourg in west-central Switzerland).
Usually served in the French part of Switzerland in cantons of Fribourg and Vaud, Moitié-Moitié was prepared here in Hong Kong by our resident Slow Food executive committee member, Mr. Walter Kern, who arrived from Switzerland over three decades ago. The lovely rooftop event started with an amuse-bouche of roasted tomatoes and fennel. Once seated, we started with a wonderful traditional Grisons barley soup. This was followed with trays of cold cuts, roasted peppers, pickled gherkins and pearl onions, and salads of potato, cabbage.
The main course, Moitié-Moitié was prepared in a traditional fondue clay pot that enables it to retain and distribute the heat evenly when set upon the flame. First, the pot is rubbed with garlic, then a dry white wine is poured along with the two types of shredded cheese. This was mixed well over heat to ensure a smooth texture. Nutmeg was grated as well to enhance the nutty flavours of the cheese mixture. A multitude of crusty bread was served to “dip” into the velvety cheese mixture using the fondue fork. Also served was lightly poached broccoli raab and young asparagus.
The sense of community was enhanced while we dipped our fondue forks into the velvety cheese mixture. Now, if the cheese mixture is not stirred often enough and the flame becomes too hot, a crusty layer of cheese is formed on the bottom of the pot. This is called ‘la religieuse’, and at the end, when the Moitié-Moitié is almost finished, an egg can be cooked on it as a treat for anyone who can still eat! As conversations unfolded, we learnt that fondue is not only relegated to the cold months of the year. It may be enjoyed during the Spring-Summer months as well, albeit perhaps only once a month since it can be a decadent meal! The night ended on a sweet note with a tarte tatin served with double cream. The carmelised apple provided a nice contrast from the sharp cheese flavours of the Moitié-Moitié a perfect end to a memorable night with many laughs.
